Tuscany in the Wintertime

Last weekend was the first time that I had ever been to Tuscany and I must admit that I was apprehensive about going in the wintertime. While the countryside is beautiful any time of year, I had heard from many people that the weather in February would be cold and snowy. Also, because it's Tuscany's off season, many of the stores and restaurants in the area are closed during the winter months. Unfortunately, everyone was right about the weather. We left the rain in Florence and drove an hour into the countryside of Colle di Val d'Elsa, where the rain turned into snow as soon as we reached the mountains. Now I understand why the concierge was so adamant on us renting an automatic car with four wheel drive, which we failed to do!

While in Tuscany we stayed at Castello di Casole, a Timbers Resort that is set upon 4,200 acres in the Tuscan countryside. On the hotel property are mountains, valleys, olive groves and vineyards. Farmhouses and villas for rent are scattered throughout the land, while the main hotel is housed in a restored castle. The property was breathtaking and my only complaint was the winding dirt roads that led from the main road to the hotel. They were at times very steep and worn, although this also added to the sense of seclusion and privacy. 

Unfortunately the hotel was closed during our stay because it was low season. Instead, we stayed in Paradiso, a four bedroom farmhouse equipped with heated floors, an infinity-edge pool and an outdoor patio. My favorite part about the house was the old stone and tile on the inside walls that served as a reminder of the villa's long history. While I am partial to the houses at Castello di Casole, I am sure that a hotel room in the main building would be just as luxurious. The benefit of being in the hotel is being within close proximity to the pool and the hotel restaurants. 

Paradiso, one of many farmhouses at Castello di Casole

The pool at Paradiso

Castello di Casole features a relaxing spa that is housed in what was once the estate's wine cellar. The hotel also has a fitness center, although many of the roads through the property are ideal for walking, running and hiking. Guests could not ask for a better location. The town of Colle di Val d'Elsa is historic and beautiful, and Castello di Casole is less than an hour from popular towns such as Volterra, San Gemignano and Siena. I highly recommend this boutique property and I already cannot wait to return.

A view of the countryside from Paradiso

Note: Although the wintertime is Tuscany's low season we loved being in the area in February. The house was incredibly cozy and watching the snow fall from the living room was like a scene out of a movie. Many of the restaurants were closed but we still made it to some great places, including Osteria del Borgo in Mensano and Officina della Cucina Popolare in Colle di Val d'Elsa. 

My parents and I enjoying dinner in at Paradiso

A private chef dinner at Paradiso

Artichoke risotto made by our fantastic chef, Susanna

Squid ink tortellini with truffle and ricotta at Osteria del Borgo

A baked onion stuffed with bread and parmesan cheese from Officina della Cucina Popolare 

When we were not busy lounging in our adorable house we drove to Siena to visit the Duomo. We also arranged a wine tasting at a local family run vineyard, Setriolo. I worked with Sophie Chamberlain of Untainted Tuscany to arrange our experiences and she was terrific. From truffle hunting to private chef dinners and gelato making classes, Sophie is able to arrange it all. 

What I learned during my first trip to Tuscany is that, any time of year, this area is an incredible place to visit. Each season brings new experiences and adventures, making return trips a must. Whether you're planning a family vacation or an anniversary trip, Tuscany should always be in the back of your mind. Molto bello!