This past summer my Mom celebrated her 50th birthday. Being that it was such a major milestone, my Dad and I decided to plan a family trip to Italy that would be anything but ordinary. This sounded great in theory, but the truth was that we needed the help of a luxury travel agent, someone who would customize an itinerary to fit our family's needs. That's when we contacted IC Bellagio, a high end travel agency that was recommended to us by American Express. Together with our agent, my dad and I put together a ten day European vacation that would bring us to Rome, Venice and Ravello, a small town located on the Almafi Coast.
The trip began in Venice where we spent two nights at the Luna Hotel Baglioni. This hotel is rich in history, as the building structure has existed since the year 1118. The hotel lies on a small lagoon just off of the Grand Canal and is located adjacent to high-end shops, including Chanel and Missoni. Just around the corner is Harry's Bar, a Cipriani restaurant that is famous for its deliciously sweet bellinis.
Overall I enjoyed my time at the Luna Hotel Baglioni. The property was beautiful and the service was attentive, although not as personalized as I would have liked. When I return in the future I plan to stay with the Bauer Il Palazzo. From what I gathered, this seems to be the best property in Venice.
A note to keep in mind: Most of the hotels in Venice are decorated to reflect the culture of the ancient city. They resemble the traditional Venetian style as opposed to being more contemporary like the majority of hotels in the United States.
The restaurant that we ate at on our first night, Bistrot de Venise, was wonderful and I highly recommend it. The service was exquisite and we had a beautiful candlelit table that was located in a quiet alleyway. Our meal was preceded by an intimate gondola ride through the waterways of Venice, which had been previously arranged by our concierge. It certainly set the mood for a special night.
The following day we met our private guide in the hotel lobby and set off for the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. A highlight of the day was viewing a demonstration on how Murano glass is crafted. We were also taken on a private tour of the factory's archives. A visit to three islands is a great day trip to arrange, as being out on the water gives one a unique perspective on the city.
I cannot encourage travelers enough to hire a private guide while abroad. All of our tours were prearranged and we never had to wait in any lines. This simple action eliminated all unnecessary stress from our vacation.
While on the island of Torcello we stopped to wander through the lush gardens of Locanda Cipriani, an additional Cipriani restaurant located in the city of Venice. We were unable to have lunch on the property, as we had much planned that afternoon. However, this restaurant would make a great addition to one's vacation. If you're unable to stop by for lunch, I at least recommend grabbing a drink on the premises. It was a warm and sunny day when we visited and sitting outside amongst the greenery was absolute heaven.
From Venice we made our way via train to Rome. IC Bellagio ensured a safe and worry-free arrival by arranging a private car that would be at our disposal for the next five days. The driver met us at the station and drove us directly to the Hotel De Russie, our hotel located only a short walk from the Spanish steps.
I cannot say enough about the De Russie. This hotel had some of the most professional staff I had ever encountered and the grounds were absolutely breathtaking. The courtyard pictured above was my favorite place to relax after a long day of sightseeing. Here, one is oblivious to the chaos of the city. No outside noise can be heard and the tables overlook the resort's exquisite landscaping, which is complete with orange trees and butterfly gardens. I would stay here again in a second.
On the night of my mom's birthday we surprised her with dinner at Imago, the Michelin starred restaurant located on the sixth floor of the Hotel Hassler. Our table was pressed right up against window, allowing us to take full advantage of the panoramic views that the restaurant had to offer. This night went flawlessly and I cannot imagine a better way to have celebrated this very special occasion.
An additional recommendation while in Rome is dinner at the Sabatini restaurant, located in Trastevere. This elegant restaurant was an ideal place to spend our last night in the city. I still dream about the fresh asparagus and Buffalo mozzarella salad that I enjoyed over candlelight. Molto buono!
Once our time in Rome had expired my family and I boarded a train to Naples. We were greeted at the station by another private car, which was key for this portion of the trip as we spent a lot of time on the winding roads of the Almafi Coast. Our driver took us directly to the Hotel Caruso in Ravello, Italy, where we spent the rest of our day relaxing and taking in the beauty of the property.
Despite my best efforts, no images can do this resort justice. The hotel's garden was magnificent and complete with pathways to encourage guests to walk through and explore the exotic plants being grown. I adored the spice garden, which constantly radiated the scent of basil and oregano. In order to connect more deeply with this portion of the property I booked myself a garden massage. This spa treatment took place amongst the landscaping and was supplemented by the smells of flowers and the sounds of birds singing. It was pure bliss, as, at that moment, I was one with my surroundings.
The infinite pool at the Hotel Caruso is to die for. It has been voted one of the best hotel pools in the world by multiple publications including JustLuxe and Forbes. The pool gives guests the illusion of pure solitude not only because of its expansive views but also because of its exclusivity. It is never crowded and is quiet enough to hear the sound of one's own breathing. The end of the Earth discovered, this pool should be at the top of everyone's list of places to visit.
During our first day in Ravello, we traveled to Tramonti, Italy where we enjoyed a wine tasting at San Francesco farm. This vineyard provided us with a tour of the property as well as a demonstration on how each of the wines are made. My family and I tasted four of the bottles produced on site and simultaneously chowed down on traditional Italian antipasti. Consult the farm's website to learn more about these unique wines. My personal favorite is the Tramonti Bianco, a bubbly white wine that is amazingly refreshing on a warm summer night. Fun fact: Past guests to have visited the San Francesco property include Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.
One of my favorite dinners of the trip was that at Rosselinis restaurant, a 2 Michelin Star restaurant located in the hotel Palazzo Sasso. Our elegant table was outdoors and overlooked the ocean. As was expected, the service was wonderful and the food was truly unique. Even if not visiting the hotel for dinner I recommend stopping by the property for a drink. The resort is stunning and is conveniently located right next door to the Hotel Caruso. We had deliberated staying here but settled on the Hotel Caruso and we did not regret our decision one bit.
*A congratulations to the Caruso, which was just voted the number one resort in Europe by Travel and Leisure for the year 2011. This recognition is well-deserved.
An additional restaurant recommendation in Ravello is Cumpa Cosimo. We fell in love with this spot, so much so that we made it a point to visit again before our trip ended. The establishment is owned and managed by an old Italian woman who treats customers as she would her own children. She is warm and welcoming and she makes damn good food! Order the pasta sampler, you'll never regret it! All of the pasta made in house using only the freshest ingredients. As a word of caution, be prepared to leave feeling a little bit heaver than when you first walked in the door. When the owner saw that we had all cleared our plates she brought out more pasta, free of charge, and encouraged us with an enthusiastic "Mangia!"
If you are traveling to the Almafi Coast, book a day trip on a boat while vacationing. I stand by my belief that a destination is best observed from the water. The scenery of this location is spectacular and the crystal blue water is so inviting, especially during the warm summer months.
I believe that the best time to visit this country is in May when the temperatures are high and the crowds are just beginning to form. Visit at the end of June or later and you may find yourself baking in the hot sun and waiting in line to visit all of the sites.
As I stated above, we spent 3 nights in Venice, 4 nights in Rome and another 3 nights in Ravello. Were I to do the trip over again I would extend our stay in Ravello, as the coast is so peaceful and can easily be enjoyed for an extended period of time. There are so many towns to visit and on those days that one does not feel like traveling the pool serves as a great place to relax. I am also eager to visit Sardinia and I plan on incorporating this destination into my next Italian vacation.
Too soon to start planning? Never!
